If everything is plugged in with no loose wires then that’s the simplest option eliminated. After that it’s taking trim off and checking wires behind. No loose earth lines by any chance?

Part #1 is the radiator. If you click on it then it will take you to the next page that shows you what car it’s used in. It will also tell you if the part has been superseded and what the later number is.

Like this:
Looks like a common to all models part.

Haven’t even changed mine in about 7 years. Not had a bad enough winter. Even our electric hooligan survived without any ‘excursions’ on icy roads. I think we might have had two or three morning so where I needed to be a little bit gentle on the go pedal, but that’s all.

Have a look at Realoem. Use the last 7 of your VIN in the serial number box as that pulls up your model. If you go down into the radiator section and select the radiator itself and then drill further down it will tell you what cars that rad is used on.

That’s really not good.

I had the M50 serviced last week and they told me they’d spent 45 minutes diagnosing the charging cable with the car plugged in and found nothing wrong with it. The problem (for them) is the car tells me when it’s plugged in and unplugged again. Total time? That’ll be 2 ...

Glad you’ve got it sorted. The bill must have been frightening though!

A tip with BMWs is to also only use their screen wash. Others seem to result in the pumps getting gunged with bacterial growth.

Cartronics is a name that’s been on here in the past. They’re still about.

Need to send HRH’s Mark 4 nav head to them for a new screen as it’s losing pixels badly now.

They’re obviously not used to gas guzzlers. If it was Kerosene powered then no problem……it must be about as fast


That doesn’t say much about the quality of your dealership though. Look it up in a book maybe, even phone a friend. Phone a customer is, well, just wrong.

BMW will probably charge you £200 to gave a look, it won’t help them so they’ll just start changing things on your dime. That’s the bit that really annoys me. If you change it and it doesn’t work then I should not be paying! I had that argument about 17 years ago with the E53 when presented with a ...

The only one I’ve ever seen referred to was made by Behr.

OEM are silly money - £850 - and that’s just ridiculous.

Probably worth having a look at the battery connections and especially a close look at the wiring unit that sits on top of it. I think there is a small wire that comes off the +ve side that provides power to certain systems in the event of an accident - like locking, hazard lights and part of the on ...

The central locking antennas are in the aerial diversity unit as above. Module A421. It is static sensitive, but a battery change should not have caused any issues. If the radio is working then that tends to show at least part of the module is fine.

The module receives the signals from the keys ...

…..and a thought from today is are the batteries OK?

You can charge them off the car with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Certified-Portable-Charging-Magnetic-Compatible-TYA-WATCHCHARGER/dp/B0DT3NPQ2T/ref=dp_prsubs_d_sccl_2/262-6375889-7525010?pd_rd_w=dyKEz&content-id=amzn1.sym.8e379e90-2a14 ...

Niggles, well let’s say having a car built between Xmas and New Year might have been a warning sign!

Oil pressure switch failed twice within first month.
On board Siemens phone (yes it had one in 2005) kept the car awake and killed the battery more than once.
Starter motor - a known issue for 2004 ...

The central locking is controlled by the Junction Box Electronics module (basically the rear fusebox) actioning instructions from the Car Access System that in turn is getting instructions from the Remote Control Receiver. The receiver is part of the antenna diversity unit and mounted at the top of ...