The parrot gives full Bluetooth hands free, including voice control of dialling and answering, contact synching, USB music management with artwork on the display unit, Aux input, Bluetooth streaming audio etc, and intelligently mutes the normal stereo while in use. It’s a good solid unit – I’ve had the same one in 6 different cars now.
You will need:
One parrot MKi9200 hands free kit. This has a display module, a dual microphone, a USB and aux interface lead, the controller itself, a remote control unit with scroll wheel and interface leads for standard units.
One BMW SOT lead – this fits ‘between’ the existing amplifier and the speaker connections, and provides the interface point for the parrot to connect to.
One 5m long loom extension cable, to run from the parrot controller back to the electronics in the boot.
I bought all my kit from justcarkits.co.uk – used them for years and they’re really helpful, but there’s plenty of other sources.
Screwdrivers and a set of Torx bits
Socket set
ESSENTIAL – a set of trim pry tools – I wouldn’t consider doing this without them, they make it SO much easier and hugely reduce the risk of damaging trim.
Turn your Ignition OFF!
I start by gently prising the stereo surround from each side. Dead easy with a plastic pry tool, and it just pops out.
There are four torx heads holding the stereo in, located here: I’ve seen people opening the flip front and pulling the stereo fuse to lock it open etc – but frankly a fine torx tool simply works without the need to go through all that, it’s very straightforward.
Pull the stereo out, and let it rest carefully so as not to scratch anything. On this pic you can see the location of the official AUX IN connector on the loom – I already had this fitted, but if you don’t – this is where it goes.
Gently pry the wood trim to the side of the stereo towards the steering wheel. This makes an excellent place to mount the Parrot Display, and the display lead can simply be tucked behind that trim and routed into the cavity behind the stereo ready for connecting later.
Use plastic pry to remove the ‘AIRBAG’ plastic cover on the A pillar. This simply hides the TORX screw head which holds the A pillar in place. Once removed, its easy to pull the A pillar to one side – go careful and don’t use anything sharp, there IS an airbag behind there. You wont need to disturb it if you carefully route the microphone cable around it.
Here’s where I mounted the microphone:
In the boot, remove the boot floor and the spare wheel. Use your socket set to undo the bolts holding the compressor dome frame, and lift the whole assembly out of the way.
Unscrew the electronics cover panel
This is the connector you are looking for – the big square connector on top of the radio amp. Make sure your ignition is off and keys in pocket before disconnecting anything!
use the lever and disconnect the connector. (if you’ve not done this before, look at the lever on your parrot lead, to get how you pinch the release before lifting the lever!) Make a note of the two additional connectors highlighted, as you’ll need to transfer these too in a minute.
Connect one end the parrot SOT lead to the amp, and the other end to the lead you just disconnected. Transfer the secondary connectors from the old lead back onto the amp as shown:
TEST! At this point, if you turned your radio on you would have no sound. However - you can connect the 5m extension cable temporarily, and plug the blue parrot control unit to the other end. Try your radio now, and confirm that you have sound coming through the speakers as normal.
If all good, switch everything off again, disconnect the blue box and start routing the leads – make sure nothing is going to be ‘pinched’ or crushed when the frame and wheel are back in place.
Pop out your rear bench seat (lift from front edge) and bring the extension cable through from the rear to the nice big gap under the seat.
Pry off your front and rear door trims, so that you can tuck the cable well away under the corner of the carpet
In the passenger footwell, the lower trim is held with a screw and two twistlock connectors. With that and the side trim free, its easy to route the cable up to the cavity behind the stereo.
I ran the USB and AUX lead down from the stereo cavity and into the front ashtray –there’s a hole in the side of the ashtray which I needed to enlarge a little to get the USB connector in, but it tucks away nicely. Some prefer to have this in the glovebox.
That’s pretty much it – connect up the extension lead, the USB lead, the Microphone lead, the display lead and tuck it all away tidily behind the stereo.
Find a place that suits for the controller and stick it there.
Turn your ignition on – it will boot automatically, you’ll need to go through the usual pairing process (only once, it’s remembered after that) and job’s a goodun! Click the green button to activate voice dialling. Plug in a big USB full of music. In audio effects, you might want to turn off the bass expansion as it’s a bit overplayed!
Hope that helps..
Ben
