Re: Drivers Speaker Not Working
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 3:43 pm
Baris repairs them
Page 2 of 2
Re: Drivers Speaker Not Working
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:02 pm
Do a search on here for ‘Baris’ and ‘Cartronics’ on the Forum. Lots of folks have had it repaired and upgraded too
Re: Drivers Speaker Not Working
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:54 pm
Thanks, I’d actually been emailing him earlier today already!
Just need to check the connections with a multimeter to ensure it’s definitely the BM54 that is at fault.
Just need to check the connections with a multimeter to ensure it’s definitely the BM54 that is at fault.
Re: Drivers Speaker Not Working
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 4:11 pm
As per his ebay ad, I want to test the speaker inputs first;
"Speaker faults. As these cars are getting older, I have been seeing more and more speakers failing. The best and cheapest way to test this, is to use a multimeter. Here is a diagram of the pin out for the BM54 connection.
So with the multimeter set on the lowest ohm reading, you want to measure the + and - of each speaker input. The BM54 does not need to be plugged in for this, infact, its best to not have it plugged in, for a cleaner test. All speakers should read 4 ohms. Anything less, and its not 100% healthy. Usually, when it reaches 0, the speaker is dead. So the channels are as follows,
Pins 1 and 5 is for Rear Right Speaker
Pins 2 and 6 is for Front Right Speaker
Pins 3 and 7 is for Front Left Speaker
Pins 4 and 8 is for Rear Left Speaker"
Potentially ridiculous question, but I assume you are meant to test the pins on the unit itself as opposed to the speakers?! In my defence its not completely clear to me because hes said speaker input, surely its an output to the speaker?! Hes also said that the speakers can fail, not the channels.
"Speaker faults. As these cars are getting older, I have been seeing more and more speakers failing. The best and cheapest way to test this, is to use a multimeter. Here is a diagram of the pin out for the BM54 connection.
So with the multimeter set on the lowest ohm reading, you want to measure the + and - of each speaker input. The BM54 does not need to be plugged in for this, infact, its best to not have it plugged in, for a cleaner test. All speakers should read 4 ohms. Anything less, and its not 100% healthy. Usually, when it reaches 0, the speaker is dead. So the channels are as follows,
Pins 1 and 5 is for Rear Right Speaker
Pins 2 and 6 is for Front Right Speaker
Pins 3 and 7 is for Front Left Speaker
Pins 4 and 8 is for Rear Left Speaker"
Potentially ridiculous question, but I assume you are meant to test the pins on the unit itself as opposed to the speakers?! In my defence its not completely clear to me because hes said speaker input, surely its an output to the speaker?! Hes also said that the speakers can fail, not the channels.
Re: Drivers Speaker Not Working
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 5:08 pm
If you keep the Amp plug connected you won’t know whether the meter is looking at the Amp, the cable, or both.
Disconnect the speaker plug and then connect the meter at those pins in the plug. It will give you a loop check from the connector up to the speaker and back. You should see 4Ohms on each loop. Zero Ohms is a dead short (likely faulty speaker) and a high number or no figure is open circuit indicating either a cable fault or open circuit speaker.
If you have the HiFi audio it could be a faulty crossover network (in the door) as well as a speaker or cable fault. To ‘prove’ the cable itself disconnect it at the speaker and put a link between the connectors. You should now get a dead short (zero Ohms). If you don’t then the wiring is suspect.
Under no circumstances have the Amp connected or switched on when you do this. You will blow the final power amp Stage!
You could also run a wire pair from the correct amp pins to the speaker and with it all plugged in see if you get audio. That again proves the wiring. Keep the volume low in order to avoid damaging the amp final output stages.
Disconnect the speaker plug and then connect the meter at those pins in the plug. It will give you a loop check from the connector up to the speaker and back. You should see 4Ohms on each loop. Zero Ohms is a dead short (likely faulty speaker) and a high number or no figure is open circuit indicating either a cable fault or open circuit speaker.
If you have the HiFi audio it could be a faulty crossover network (in the door) as well as a speaker or cable fault. To ‘prove’ the cable itself disconnect it at the speaker and put a link between the connectors. You should now get a dead short (zero Ohms). If you don’t then the wiring is suspect.
Under no circumstances have the Amp connected or switched on when you do this. You will blow the final power amp Stage!
You could also run a wire pair from the correct amp pins to the speaker and with it all plugged in see if you get audio. That again proves the wiring. Keep the volume low in order to avoid damaging the amp final output stages.