All,
I managed to fit my Bury 9068 car kit this weekend at last - great result!
I’m no electrician at the best of times but thanks to all the members on the forum and a good trawl of t’internet even I managed to work it out.
Just car kits the supplier I used were great . Good honest advice and knew what they were talking about would recommend,
Tools I used were simple
Plastic trim removal tools
Pozi driver
T20 torx
Allen key
Insulation tape
Medical tape - your knuckles bleed a lot not good for the leather !!!
Fitting
I recommend as follows:-
Remove the glove box. Pelican parts have a great how to, it gives you loads more access and you can see what you are doing.
Remove passenger A trim by popping the cover with airbag written on and to move the T20 screw, this gives the A trim plenty of flex and you do not have to remove it.
Praise the headliner down using trim tools and kit the mic near the rear view mirror
Run the mic cable under the headliner down the A trim to the bottom.
Using the gap you can see in the dash to A trim “fish” using a wire coat hanger ( I wrapped mine in electrical tape to avoid any potential short circuit) the mic cable throughout into the cavity above the fuse board.
Remove the MID unit and radio, loads of info on here on what to do.
Remove the harness, I did not disconnect the battery , I was careful though to ensure that it could not short.
With the MID unit and radio out, decide where you want your display.
I ran mine next to the radio as I could easily hide the wire under the adjacent trim piece. I hate to see wires trailing about- it’s my OCD . I could not figure out a way to run the display on my right without wires showing on the dash, otherwise would have opted for that route.
Remove the trim and run the wire behind and through the gap next to the steering wheel shroud. It easily fits through and you can fish the cable around using the radio aperture. Also no chance of snagged wires.
Plug the mic and display connections into your car kit module.
Remember to think at this stage about how you position it in the radio aperture and ensure you have room.
I placed mine down the side of the glove box, loads of room fortunately, it’s a good location and you can access via radio or glove box in the future.
Next connect up the adapter harness to the original power quad lock.
Note I left my battery connected and although no key in the ignition the CD burst into life - at this point I thought I had blown it literally!!!
No issues everything settled down.
Next I tested the system- blow me it worked !!!!! I would recommend testing at this stage as it’s a PIA to strip it back out.
Re assembled the radio and all the trim pieces, put glove box back and admired my handiwork! Plus gloated at saving over £150 , to a Yorkshire man that’s a BIG deal.
Tested again and all good, chuffed to death with results.
All in cost me £150 for parts and 5 hours time, if I had the above information I think I could fit in half the time now.
For anyone with the basic radio and single play CD it’s that easy to fit
Pics as always (Plus managed to give bonnet a polish - it stopped X£"*ing snowing at last!)
I hope this helps someone else
Tints next on list, once I decide on percentage of tint.
Also going to do a suspension rebuild- following Sleepyfolks thread with interest.
Cheers all.
