55W HID kit order

[storminmike]

[quote="Raj"]
There are 2 adjuster wheels you can use to align the lights with.
[/quote]

Might have a nosey later when I figure out which is up down and side to side. I did notice that the light pattern on the lens had what many have described as a U. I think this confirms they're in the right way up.

On the 35w...a fuzzyish U...on the 55w a very pronouced U

[Ubatoid]

Turn the knob closest to the centre of the car clockwise to bring the beam up. The outside knob - that is closest to the wing is the left right adjustment. Turn clockwise to move beam left.

[storminmike]

[quote="Ubatoid"]
Turn the knob closest to the centre of the car clockwise to bring the beam up. The outside knob - that is closest to the wing is the left right adjustment. Turn clockwise to move beam left.
[/quote]

Magnifico ....so as not to err break things...did you feel the end of the travel or did it just drop off :-[

[kkodal78]

[quote="Ubatoid"]
Turn the knob closest to the centre of the car clockwise to bring the beam up. The outside knob - that is closest to the wing is the left right adjustment. Turn clockwise to move beam left.
[/quote]
What happen with the adjustment? It was just perfectly lined when it was on mine.

[Ubatoid]

What happen with the adjustment? It was just perfectly lined when it was on mine.

They wasnt far out, its just I have a tendancy to play with things until they break so I have to take them appart and then I know how they work. I am just one of lifes tinkerers :blink:

Magnifico ....so as not to err break things...did you feel the end of the travel or did it just drop off

There was no clues im afraid.

[kkodal78]

I am glad you were able to sort it out.i thought i did something to the lights. Was feeling guilty thinking i sold you bad parts.

[storminmike]

[quote="storminmike"]
[quote="X5Sport"]
[quote="storminmike"]
It's got me stumped, the 35w kit I had before never complained. Do you think that my fix wont fix it at all then?

What got me was the "draw" effect when the extra load of fogs was applied on the circuits, wouldn't that have pulled the voltage down in some weird way if they share some common circuitry?

Ps...I know knowt....just a mad theory
[/quote]

Theory is sound.  What usually happens though is the regulator bumps up the alternator output to cover the extra load so there is no effect on added 'loads' on the overall system.  Not sure if the system is all on a 'common circuit' as the lighting controls are in the LCM.  A signal used to switch a relay direct off the battery terms up front should work so your fix should in theory work too.  Not sure what the resistors will have any effect.  They'll be pretty big I expect too as you have to cover the ballasts power draw.

Richard
[/quote]

As I see it the resistors would mimic being bulbs, one per side of course bridged across the car normal bulb 12v supply. That would take care of the error checks.  The drivers side 12v would be extended to the relay to do just that, switch the relay. The relay would take a dedicated 12v from an earth and the 12v jump point (fused) back to each of the ballasts...which would then each feed the hids

Those resistors listed appear to be what is the norm for this "mimic a bulb" job

fingers crossed
[/quote]


Just to add as a bit of an update

The flickering persists but the parts have only just begun to arrive

A slow boat from China has just arrived with the resistors.

Test 1 was does plugging these into 12v which normally goes to the halogen bulb, or in my case the ballast input prevent the car seeing a "check low level"

Pass - The 12v lead out which is part of the hid bulb assembly was still plugged in to the normal bulb feed. I had no errors at this stage as the balllast would be sat on it and hence fool the system. As I intend to power the ballast via a relay I'd have been left with an open circuit one one side and relay (no demand at all) which might as well be an open circuit. Input lead out of the ballast and the resistor in its place....success. Car (nearly) fooled. It said "check" at first switch on but that went away after a repeat of and on. The resistor doesn't half get hot though and was just loose for the experiment. I will screw it to the metalwork should the next part (relay kit) stop the flickering

Next installment - waiting for the next boat from china with the harness to arrive..sometime

[X5Sport]

Given the current flowing through the resistor I'm not surprised it's getting warm.

Richard

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
Given the current flowing through the resistor I'm not surprised it's getting warm.

Richard
[/quote]

Hi Richard

I would describe it as "uncomfortably" hot to the touch ) The resistor is wrapped in some alloy finned housing but I guess screwing it to some metalwork with tiny self tappers might mitigate the heat

[X5Sport]

Hmm, sounds a bit 'underrated' to me.  Too hot = premature failure without extra heatsinking.  What's the current drawn by the ballast?  Certainly connecting it to a metal plate will help.

Even at 100% efficiency it needs a resistor capable of handling about 70W.  Are they marked with any values?

Richard

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
Hmm, sounds a bit 'underrated' to me.  Too hot = premature failure without extra heatsinking.  What's the current drawn by the ballast?  Certainly connecting it to a metal plate will help.

Even at 100% efficiency it needs a resistor capable of handling about 70W.  Are they marked with any values?

Richard
[/quote]

50watt

These

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HB3-HB4-Car-T ... 2ebfad80e6

One per side....and these will be the only demand on the car lighting circuits bar one side driving a relay too

Physical size = small finger size

[X5Sport]

Defo to be bolted to a heatsink plate.  If the lamps are 55W each then they will be hot. Still mount them as a pair and you have a twin source under bonnet electric hob..... :blink:

R

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
Defo to be bolted to a heatsink plate.  If the lamps are 55W each then they will be hot. Still mount them as a pair and you have a twin source under bonnet electric hob..... :blink:

R
[/quote]

Warm indeed. They only serve to pretend that Halogen bulbs are still plugged in. A bit of the voltage will be robbed to drive one side of a relay. The other side of the relay will push clean (I hope) current into the ballasts and onto the HID bulbs

[storminmike]

Well the harness (or rather "beads" ...must be an import dodge) arrived from China. Temporary lash up to live feed with the resistors in place.......and....no change.

Sure the lights lit up, the relay did its bit as did the resistors to fool the Canbus but after about 30s the damn flicker came back again. After some mental cursing about it I swapped the ballasts and no different. I might add that it was only one side that did it and I can't recall when I last swapped things whether it was bulb or bulb/ballast. Anyhow, ballast only swapped but the same light remained flickering.

At this point I'm thinking wiring or bulb...nah not the bulb surely

Quick rush to the wifes 35w kit and out with a bulb and into mine.............NO FLICKERING

Now I can't quite figure if the bulb seemed less bright although they are both supposed to be 4,300ks and they were from a 35w kit. Some bulbs are suposedly rated as 55w or 35w but then again some have suggested they're the same bulb

So....I'm now going to get some 55w 4,300k bulbs of the tinternet....not from China though because it takes so damn long.

Any reliable sources? HIDS Direct want £12.45 all in on their online shop, we-sell-hids want £15.95

[X5Sport]

Cheaper bulbs are probably coming from China too.

See if Philips or Osram do 55W lamps.  They're the biggest OEM suppliers.

R