Post
by Sanj » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:58 am
Key thing to get right in your head here is what you currently have in the car and what you are trying to add.
Up front you have tweeters/mids/woofers to cover the frequency range (some won't have the mids).
In the rear doors you will have just tweeters and woofers (high and low frequencies).
The sub is your subwoofer (lowest frequency range), travels furthest and creates the 'fill' of sound WITH the rest of the frequency range. Otherwise if you've heard and sub and don'y have it now, you know something is missing.
The sub enclosure sold here is custom by x555 for a 10 litre displacement (subs have an optimum working range) and you will need to find the correct sub.
A sub will never work well without its own dedicated amplifier - hence the need for one here.
It is a subwoofer so will look to give you the lowest frequency, that is taken from the rear door woofers (as they have the current supply of low-end frequency). Identify the rear left and right woofer speakers, get the positive and negative speaker wire, splice them and take them to the amplifier (which will have a line in feed). The amp must receive this signal so it can amplify it and send it onwards to the sub.
The other amp connections required are one permanent positive (usually straight off the battery), one negative (or ground, off the chassis of the car - it's been earthed, but remove the paint layer to get that really good earth connection) and lastly the signal cable that tells the amp to come on or turn off when the head unit is switched on/off. Of course you have the speaker wire that comes out and goes to the new amp.
Remember two pairs of speaker wire feed in (left and right door) and then ONE comes out - that's called 'bridged'. Gives single output but also more amplified.
HTHs
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