XSeries-forum

I have a 2004 X5 E53 3.0d Sport - I need to have various things done (soon) as follows;

Front pads and discs
Rear pads and discs
Brake fluid replacement
Air and fuel filter
replace engine breather pipe
attempt to fix folding mirror as per Sanj's How To posting.


I haven't done any of these jobs on an X5 but have done on other cars (when I was a few years younger!!!).

Rather than lien the pockets of a stealership or Independent garage, I would prefer to give the cash to one of the forum members and let them have the benefit of it (and that way I can also get to see how its done so I can do myself in the future).
Alternatively, I'm happy to pay some a few quid to supervise me doing this and for them to give me some pointers on how to do the various things needed.

I am based in Hampshire and happy to travel to surrounding counties - Berkshire, Surrey, Sussex, Dorset, Wiltshire and Oxfordshire.

Any takers?

any takers

Pity I'm up in Wolves otherwise I would have been happy to sort it for you.

Not a million miles away but regret I am unlikely to be much help.................

On ramps & with another we changed discs on X5 & I changed pads on the Z3 myself. I'm far from quickest at doing such work, (understatement), & still learning. Not changed brake fluid & prior paranoid re improper bleeding, (though not rocket science). I changed header tank & pipework, mirror glasses, FSR, fixed tailgate & have done other minor stuff but I often pay dealer, indy or trade contacts when busy, unable or unmotivated.

Not familiar with 3.0d specific filters but have changed fuel & filters on other cars before.........I can't think such tasks would be difficult on yours.

Whilst I do odd bits I have to date kept the FBMWSH up to date on the X5 & thus have never had cause to change fluids or filters on it myself.

Working on cars with a little knowedge & a few tools is all well & good until something breaks or siezes or drops into oblivion, (whether the parts, the tools or the person working on the car)....I am slowly improving my abilities but wouldnt want to work on someone else's car - just in case.

Good Luck & Sorry I cant help further.

Hi Raj,

How long would/should the jobs take (aside of the mirror fix which could be as long as a piece of string) - I travel a fair bit and could maybe co-incide this with another trip based on both our (and mainly your!) availability?

Where is my best place to go and cost/order parts (want correct/oem standard not cheap options) and how do in ensure I have the correct part numbers? For example when I asked my local stealership about doing the breather pipe they said 'which one.......? (!)

Cheers

Smee

I can wash them, thats as far as it goes

I go to the stealer and get ripped off

[quote=""smeeagain""]How long would/should the jobs take (aside of the mirror fix.........)[/quote]

Pads & discs : Ideally 30 mins p/side to remove calliper, (pad sensors on 2 of the 4 wheels), old pads & disc then apply copper grease & refitting new pads/disc. Absence of a decent trolley jack means using spare wheel jack & only being able to work on one corner at a time so add another 20 mins or so & more time for using a non ratchet calliper key. Factor in possible breakage of a sensor cables, (& maybe quickly sourcing new), a bolt being corroded, a heavily oxidised disc stuck to a hub face, something not locating, getting copper grease on friction surfaces in error & you can easily loose an hour & some per corner. Before you know it 4 hrs easily gone for all 4 corners. Thats why I took mine to chap I know who runs a small workshop/garage. We were able to use his hydraulic ramps to elevate the whole car & use his hydraulic socket etc. Additional peace of mind if an Allen bolt sheared he would have had the correct kit,(& spare fastenings), to rectify matters.

Brake fluid replacement : Allow about 1-2hrs for 2 people on 1st outing. You would need a manual brake bleeding kit. Ideally you'd want to do this when wheels off the car. Due to fear of air bubbles I have avoided doing this myself in past. It seems to be a P.I.T.A job for sake of small labour time for a specialist with better kit. It can make sense to do this with all 4 wheels off & after changing the brakes. Re the fluid change there is a space in front of service book for this & absence of evidence of a change might just be a later issue when you eventually sell the car. Also bear in mind there is a warning lamp on dash when this is overdue. I am not aware of any home use software that resets this easily, others may know different.


3.0d Air filter : Allow for an hour or so but time can apparently be saved if doing the breather at same time.

Replace Engine Breather : A real P.I.T.A . to get to the fastenings according to others x555. I would allow for a couple of hours & some. Expect to drop fasteners/sockets & have red knuckles.

All above : Realistically allow a good 8 hrs to comfortably do all the above with a helper where needed. Ideally allow for a 10-12 hr day allowing for distractions, unplanned issues, mistakes, stopping for breaks & stretching out so you can actually walk straight the next day !

[quote=""smeeagain""]Where is my best place to go and cost/order parts (want correct/oem standard not cheap options) and how do in ensure I have the correct part numbers? For example when I asked my local stealership about doing the breather pipe they said 'which one.......? (!)[/quote]

You can order discs, pads, & if required new sensor cables from your main dealer. Ideally get 2 cable sensors so if yours are knackered you can replace. Ask before if you can return sensor cables if unopened as that way you have peace of mind of having them if old ones cant be re-used. Obviously if pad warning light is on you will have to replace at least one. You can source pads & discs cheaper elsewhere & this would involve calling independent parts suppliers such as Motormec who are trusted & supply decent brake parts by Jurid & Techstar. Be careful using others as you can end up buying poor quality unless you have an idea as to what's good & what's not supplier & component wise. Bear in mind if ordering that parts for the 3.0d are different from those on 4.6is & 4.8is. The BMW discs are zinc coated & don't corrode as much as some others on non friction surfaces.

On subject of brakes and discs make sure you are 100% happy they actually all really Do all need changing. Some will happily advise new discs on basis of some minor corrosion on non friction surface of the discs & in turn advise you they only fit new discs with new pads- this is nonsense. Corrosion to non friction part of discs is not an MOT fail indeed minor corrosion on non friction contact part of the disc is a regular visible feature on cars that live outside in the winter. In an MOT test the car merely has to pass a braking efficiency test. Other than that the brake friction parts will only be failed if obvious serious signs of adverse wear or damage…….we are talking here of cracked discs and massive external lip corrosion. Many folk have been conned into buying brand new discs, pads and sensors when they are simply not required. If every car with a few miles on the odometer and minor disc corrosion needed new brakes then used car margins would plummet. Only today I talked to a decent MOT tester who told me nearly all the cars he tests & passes from secondhand car dealers have some external lip corrosion, (as would be expected of cars parked on a rainy forecourt & hardly used for weeks on end).

You can get BMW part numbers on the website realoem by entering lat 8 numbers of your VIN/Chassis Number but bear in mind non OE parts wont have a BMW part number. If dealing with dealer for parts you simply give them the Reg or VIN & they should simply order what you need you shouldn't need the part numbers - indeed one dealer told me they cant give customers parts numbers in absence of an order so as to avoid folk trawling ebay & elsewhere for cheaper parts. As for the correct breather & filter part numbers look at posts on this site. On member checked realoem & the breather prior fitted to his car was different to actual part required. Ideally if doing this yourself get replacement housing & filter of new design & look to take housing back if not required. Do check with part department it is okay to take back unused parts if packaging unopened. I genuinely think the staff member you spoke to was trying to help you source right part(s) but the reality is many considering sourcing own parts end up through embarassment &/or confusion simply booking in the car for dealer to fix rather than struggling to get right bits.


Once again, sorry for not being hands on helpful due to absence of heated garage, hydraulic jack, other decent kit & little available time.

I recently posted details of the independents in area so maybe check my posts if later of use.

Good Luck

(Edit) Raj, the reply was aimed at you !! Happy to travel if you're still happy to help ?

Cheers

Smee

AW8

Thanks for the detailed reply - I think I will get the parts via main dealer assuming I can enlist Raj's help. I think that as they have quoted me only £43 plus vat to change the brake fluid that I will get them to do it at the point of doing the Insp 1 service that is due. I've got the trolley jacks, axle stands etc etc so the rest should be straightforward. I remember in the good old days brake pads needs anti-rattle clips - di i need these too? I guess what I'm asking is that aside of the main parts - ie a disc and a pad what are the 'bits and pieces I need as I'd rather replace new than bugger around with niggling little parts that are prone to break as you remove/replace

Smee

Agree re dealer route for the brake fluid change...........you get a stamp in the book too.

You should be able to re-use the anti rattle clips if you dont deform them on removal, (be careful & take time as many get knackered by brute force). I used a flat screwdriver to remove mine. Quite amazing how something so simple in design & function can at times be confusing to correctly remove/refit. I mentioned the pad wear sensors in my prior post. Ideally get a pair just in case & maybe return them if not needed. Use parallel narrow nose pliers to remove old connectors from pads if planning to reuse same.

Re your trolley jack check the max weight load on it. My old trolley jack, ( which i prior thought was a good purchase), was fine on my other cars but useless on the X5. It wont go high enough &/or take the cars weight (max weight labelling on jack &/or its packaging). My axle stands also pretty useless also & due to their inadequate height for the X5.

It sounds obvious but do check you have the locking wheel nut available.

You will need a suitable allen wrench for the removal of the calipers - I cant recall 100% if bolt holding disc same size as the calipers or not without checking. There's a diy guide on xoutpost btw. I have a simple 90 degree allen key wrench, (not ratchet) & used same when I did pads on the Z3. Simple enough operation on the wrench but time consuming & hard work with a stuborn allen bolt. I used WD40 to free up same but had to be careful not to get same on the friction surfaces or contact point where caliper meets pads.

You will also need copper grease - local motor factors or ebay have this cheap enough....a small tube will suffice.

Cable ties handy for holding calipers rather than leaving them dangling with all weight held by brake lines.

Cant advise re the filter/breather - as prior suggested look at posts from others who have done this & maybe post there or PM relevant members in case of any remaining query. Not sure if yours if facelift or post facelift so unsure re any part discrepancies.........if in doubt seek advice of others on here. Pretty sure those who did this have facelift cars - unsure re what if any differences re parts or procedure..........Sorry mine is a petrol.


Oh & dont forget lots or rubber gloves, foam or other padding to kneel on & plenty of Hot drinks.

@AW8 - Nice replies. Very comprehensive and exact.

@Smee - Always happy to help fellow members on any forum I'm on. I'm no certified mechanic, but I've been modding cars (not just my own) for years. Have plenty of tools and a decent trolley jack... Don't have a garage (just yet, but I'm working on that) to get the car in. I'll PM you my number and if you want some help sorting the various then give me a call.

will do thanks