XSeries-forum

For the last couple of weeks the drivers door speaker hasn’t been working. I assumed it was due to the temperamental Parrot look so i ripped it all out this morning but sadly to no avail. However when I moved the jeep back a bit later I noticed the speaker was working.

Has anyone ever had anything similar happen?

Does the normal Nav system have a separate amp or is it just powered off the HU? Just trying to pinpoint where the fault may lie.

Does anyone know which of the wires in the look are the speaker wires, and ideally specifically those for the drivers door?

 

Separate amp in the boot.  Check the connector down in the spare wheel well for corrosion or bad fit.

It could also be that the wires are stressing with age/use where they go though the door conduit, or on the speaker itself.  It’s probably a case of start at one end and work towards the other unfortunately.

There was meant to be a photo attached of the quad lock adapter but it hasn’t appeared.

I gave the duct between the door and car a jiggle but it didn’t make a difference.

Second time lucky.

Any idea which are the speaker wires, or ideally the drivers door ones?!

This (albeit for a 2000 E39) suggests the top left yellow and blue wires are for the speakers.

Today I did a bit of investigatory work and removed the door card to access the speaker. I unplugged the speaker and tried another in its place and it worked briefly once. Then the speaker in question also worked once while I was futtering. I then tried the speaker straight into the quad lock adapter in the spare wheel well (where the radio unit is) and it worked 100% each time.

I assume I have a fault in the wiring somewhere between the radio and the door, would it sound like I’m correct in my assumption? I removed the grommet where the cables enter the door from the body, but couldn’t see any frayed wires.

Would I be safer just running 2 new wires from the boot into the door to save any farting about (still hassle in itself but at least I’d know what needs done)? Or am I missing a simple trick to pinpoint the fault?

There is usually a miltiplug near to the hinges, so the door can be removed from the car for repair etc.
Try unplugging and spraying with solvent contact cleaner,

Good shout, thanks. I undid the grommet at the car side and it’s actually 1 big plug. I sprayed both ends with electrical cleaner but with no luck sadly!

I noticed that the speaker wires were different colours to that within the door though, so the next step is to try a speaker at the connector point to see if the wire from the boot up to the plug is good.

Unfortunately you can get conductor failure where the wires fatigue but leave the outer intact.  Manipulation is often the only way but with a meter/continuity tester so you don’t need the power in all the time.

Could it be the bn54 unit

Hi I had the same problem  with the  the drivers side speaker, problem  was the head unit and ibeleave it's a common  problem

Had another play tonight. Tried a speaker at the connector at the door hinge but no sound.

Then tried the speaker at the same coloured wires at the quad lock in the boot (blue/brown and blue/red), but again no sound.

I then put the balance to the front right, and swapped the top 4 pins around and the door speaker still didn’t work, so I’m now completely stumped.

Just to emphasise the point X5 makes, I had this exact problem with my 27 year old M3 and the crankshaft sensor to DME wire. Car wouldn't start but wire showed continuity. Long story short where it passed through the bulkhead the wire was broken bar a couple of strands, no outer sign of damage, this wire was in the middle of a loom, no logical reason it was like this. I suppose age, vibrations, bit like me, knackered. Replaced complete wire and car started first turn after 2 months of trying to find the fault.

[quote="Silverfox58"]
Hi I had the same problem  with the  the drivers side speaker, problem  was the head unit and ibeleave it's a common  problem
[/quote]

As in the unit in the boot that the quad lock adapter plugs into?

The more I read, the more it sounds like the BM54 is faulty.

Anyone on here had one repaired, or even done it themselves? Circa £80 to have it repaired, or £45 for the parts to DIY.