I noticed that the front n/s CV boot was ripped on the wifes X5 the other day. I thought I would try one of these 'sticky boots' as they are £10 as opposed to a lot more for a garage to fit a 'proper' boot. Anyway, I installed it this morning adhering to the instructions to the letter. I glued up the new boot on the shaft before removing the old one.
I cut a test piece off the new boot, glued it and let it set. I cannot pull the joint apart so its looking promising for the one on the car. If it works its saved a load of cash. Not only that but I checked my car and the same boot is just about to give up.. So, my car next.
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cv boot.
Re: cv boot.
it would be interesting to know the long term results from this. ive always assumed they wouldn't work but am open to surprises!
05 stirling grey 3.0d Auto. mods - park heater, reverse cam, aux in
Re: cv boot.
Well I've been in the pub stretching my test piece for the last 3 hrs. It eventually broke but not the glue -it ripped the rubber at the side of the joint- and I was really stretching it hard.
Re: cv boot.
Just my opinion..... But i hate the glue cv boots.... I've tried them twice and had problems with them twice...
The x5 joints are knock off so I'd prefer to use a proper one
But it'll be interesting to see how you get on with yours
The x5 joints are knock off so I'd prefer to use a proper one
But it'll be interesting to see how you get on with yours
X5 e53 3.0 2002 with LPG
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X5-D-Sport
- Snr Member
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- Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 11:13 pm
Re: cv boot.
Fitting the proper universal/CV boot is actually easier than you may think on an E53..
Raise & support the front end of the vehicle.
Wheel off
Undo splined shaft bolt a few turns - wallop the nut to free the splines.
Bottom Swivel & track rod end disconnected.
Remove shaft nut
gently pull the strut/hub away from mountings while supporting the drive shaft.
Tie the strut away from the area to clear work area.
Cut the old boot off & remove clips
turn the new boot inside out, lubricate & stretch over a cone, & load CV grease into the joint.
Locate the boot over the joint, & tie the clip seals in position at each end of the boot.
Relocate the drive shaft thru the hub & loosely fit centre nut.
Locate the hub to the swivel & track rod end... and ensure nuts fitted securely.
Lock up the hub shaft centre nut & locking tab
refit wheel.
Time all told with tools to hand = approx 1.5 hrs in a drive way.
This job often seems like a nightmare, but an average garage will do it in an hour.
You any where near Birmingham, I can recommend a garage that will do the job incl the CV bot for £50.
Raise & support the front end of the vehicle.
Wheel off
Undo splined shaft bolt a few turns - wallop the nut to free the splines.
Bottom Swivel & track rod end disconnected.
Remove shaft nut
gently pull the strut/hub away from mountings while supporting the drive shaft.
Tie the strut away from the area to clear work area.
Cut the old boot off & remove clips
turn the new boot inside out, lubricate & stretch over a cone, & load CV grease into the joint.
Locate the boot over the joint, & tie the clip seals in position at each end of the boot.
Relocate the drive shaft thru the hub & loosely fit centre nut.
Locate the hub to the swivel & track rod end... and ensure nuts fitted securely.
Lock up the hub shaft centre nut & locking tab
refit wheel.
Time all told with tools to hand = approx 1.5 hrs in a drive way.
This job often seems like a nightmare, but an average garage will do it in an hour.
You any where near Birmingham, I can recommend a garage that will do the job incl the CV bot for £50.
Re: cv boot.
the problem i found in doing the job the correct way, was the bloody hub nut.
i had to buy a hugh socket 32mm from memory? then i needed a 6foot long scaffolding pole on the end of a half inch breaker bar to get enough power to loosen the nut. i snapped two short extension bars in the process also. ideally you need someone else to hold the socket on square as it keeps wanting to slip off as you turn it. i rigged up an axle stand at hub nut height to hold a short extension bar to try and keep it all square.
it certainy wasnt as easy as just casually saying "remove the hub nut"
hence i gave the glue on version some serious thought, maybe next time...
i had to buy a hugh socket 32mm from memory? then i needed a 6foot long scaffolding pole on the end of a half inch breaker bar to get enough power to loosen the nut. i snapped two short extension bars in the process also. ideally you need someone else to hold the socket on square as it keeps wanting to slip off as you turn it. i rigged up an axle stand at hub nut height to hold a short extension bar to try and keep it all square.
it certainy wasnt as easy as just casually saying "remove the hub nut"
hence i gave the glue on version some serious thought, maybe next time...
05 stirling grey 3.0d Auto. mods - park heater, reverse cam, aux in
Re: cv boot.
Well I rechecked mine yesterday and sure enough it had split and there was grease all over the place.. So, clean down and installation of another boot it is now fixed. I'm getting good at this.
Re: cv boot.
the cheap sticky one had split? already?
Smee
Smee
Re: cv boot.
No. One on my X5. I did one on the wife's a few days before. They seem to be holding up ok. I made another test piece from the smallest diameter offcut and the joint is extremely strong.