ECP Code?

[Rusty]

From what I've read, I understand the S5 has the 5 year warranty over the S3's 3. The battery is the same size physically but you wound just have to check that the amperages were the same.


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[dirtymonkey29]

The s5 battery part number from ECP is 444770198

[X5Sport]

If that battery is the same as this one, then it's almost exactly the same dimensions as the OEM and fits perfectly.

[storminmike]

Thanks guys. Darn thing started no problem at all this morning after having "jump" started last night.

ECP have them under that number as "click and collect"....at half the Halfords price 

Weird.....bonnet open for a few hours the other day with the air filter not a murmour.

This weekend I can't remember having a door open for ages or any such, maybe had the lights on on Friday on the way home in the bad weather

Might be a piece of mind insurance swap whatever as I've no idea how old the existing one is and the car is a 54 plate.

[X5Sport]

I had exactly the same with my X5.  One day fine, next day nada!  The battery on there should have a four-digit code for the week/year or month/year.  Anything more than 6 years old is chancing it. 

These modern 'AGM'' type batteries (no free electrolyte sloshing about) are less tolerant of going flat than good old liquid batteries, but a lot safer to handle.  They also have a shorter life...

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
I had exactly the same with my X5.  One day fine, next day nada!  The battery on there should have a four-digit code for the week/year or month/year.  Anything more than 6 years old is chancing it. 

These modern 'AGM'' type batteries (no free electrolyte sloshing about) are less tolerant of going flat than good old liquid batteries, but a lot safer to handle.  They also have a shorter life...
[/quote]

Fine again this morning....and in the evening ...then moved up the drive...weird

I'll have a look at the weekend at the date then seeing as it's a bit of a faff. It is irritating though and I've got the leads in the back just in case. When it's dead it's dead...no amount of praying with the key helps either......da da da da goes the solenoid then click....then dim dash... then FFS.....damn :-[

Advice already given appreciated

[X5Sport]

If you've got a meter, or access to one it might be worth looking at the voltage at the jumper terminals and see what it reads.  It's a pain when it happens though.  Had it twice after long overnight flights back to UK.  "Here's your keys sir, the car is in Row......". Get in it and....click.click.click...FFS!  Back to desk...."Have you got a booster pack please?".. :rant:

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
If you've got a meter, or access to one it might be worth looking at the voltage at the jumper terminals and see what it reads.  It's a pain when it happens though.  Had it twice after long overnight flights back to UK.  "Here's your keys sir, the car is in Row......". Get in it and....click.click.click...FFS!  Back to desk...."Have you got a booster pack please?".. :rant:
[/quote]

I certainly have. What should I be looking at voltage wise say first thing in the morning after a 12 hours sitting around since return from work?

Presumably a bit more than the above when actually running?

[X5Sport]

At least 12.2 ideally.  You need the car to go back to 'sleep' after you open the bonnet.  Anything much less than 12V is defo flat battery or battery on the way out.  Fully charged it should be closer to 12.6, and on charge (engine running) anything between 13.8 and 14.4 (depending on charge state).

BMW told me not to check voltages within 4 hours of last engine use, or use of a charger and to let the car go into sleep mode as it uses a bit when awake and that drops the battery reading a bit.

If it's well below 12V then probably a cell gone or going.

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
At least 12.2 ideally.  You need the car to go back to 'sleep' after you open the bonnet.  Anything much less than 12V is defo flat battery or battery on the way out.  Fully charged it should be closer to 12.6, and on charge (engine running) anything between 13.8 and 14.4 (depending on charge state).

BMW told me not to check voltages within 4 hours of last engine use, or use of a charger and to let the car go into sleep mode as it uses a bit when awake and that drops the battery reading a bit.

If it's well below 12V then probably a cell gone or going.
[/quote]

Cheers for the figures

Well as the "owner" of 2 X5s now the difference between them creates interesting observations

Mine....on key press to open or other fumbling provokes the webasto to spin up...give up...spin up...give up...hunt and make weird noises. The wife's does no such thing

My Webasto I don't think is one of them meant to work in that way...now that may knick some electric and it's certainly provoked easily and can be heard making a few weird noises on locking. It must stop for certain some time later but when I do not know.

It's been known (the webasto) to be hunting when the bonnet is up but gives up after a few minutes. Maybe someone's mucked with the coding

[X5Sport]

My E53 Webasto did nothing unless the air temp was below about 5C I think.  Then it used to sound like a miniature jet engine firing up!  Wasn't paying £1,300 for one on the X6.  They're not fitted as standard on the diesels now.

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
At least 12.2 ideally.  You need the car to go back to 'sleep' after you open the bonnet.  Anything much less than 12V is defo flat battery or battery on the way out.  Fully charged it should be closer to 12.6, and on charge (engine running) anything between 13.8 and 14.4 (depending on charge state).

BMW told me not to check voltages within 4 hours of last engine use, or use of a charger and to let the car go into sleep mode as it uses a bit when awake and that drops the battery reading a bit.

If it's well below 12V then probably a cell gone or going.
[/quote]

As a follow up after 2 days sat there I measured 12.40 volts with the engine off. Never got round to testing it running.

[X5Sport]

Sounds like the battery is OK then...

It could be the starter has an intermittent fault.  Mine was doing the same and was eventually checked to find it was drawing around 900A when cranking which exceeds the battery's 830A Cold Cranking limit so the voltage drops.

Needs a device called a 'current clamp' to test it, and that means a specialist - unless you know someone with said device that can cope with that much current?

[storminmike]

[quote="X5Sport"]
Sounds like the battery is OK then...

It could be the starter has an intermittent fault.  Mine was doing the same and was eventually checked to find it was drawing around 900A when cranking which exceeds the battery's 830A Cold Cranking limit so the voltage drops.

Needs a device called a 'current clamp' to test it, and that means a specialist - unless you know someone with said device that can cope with that much current?
[/quote]

It's only done it the once and after reading your voltage advice I've decided not to go the hypochondriac route for the moment. I've got the AA , jump leads and the wife's 1st gear lurch to sort so I'll look the other way until they're sorted

I haven't got a clamp and i'd be scared of what it said :'(

I've just replaced the upper grills (bought black painted umbrol silver) on the wifes 5 and they weren't cheap

Thanks for the reassurance...feel free to laugh when I'm back with a flat battery )


ps...I did read somewhere (You tube) that on the e39 you can make it show voltage on the dash

[X5Sport]

You can on the 'secret' menus on the E53 too......but I can't remember how... :-[